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Guidelines for the Clothing and Accoutrement of Loyalist Rangers and Militia
in the Service of the Southern Indian Department:
Note:
The following information is only for troops serving
under the direct command of the Southern Indian Department
The Uniform and Accoutrement of Loyalist Militia and Rangers serving with
organized units and Crown Troops should be determined by the unit you are a
member of. Please refer to your unit's guidelines for further information. On January 13,
1777, Lord Sir William Howe, Commander-in-Chief of British Forces in North
America, issued a warrant to Col John Stuart, Superintendent of Indian Affairs
for the Southern Department, authorizing him to recruit loyal citizens of the
southern colonies, who were willing to act offensively in conjunction with the
Indians, into Loyalist Militia and Ranger units. While the majority of those
recruited, being unfit for service with the Indians either through lack of woods
knowledge or temperament, ended up serving in militia units under military
command out of Pensacola and Mobile (West Florida Militia, West Florida Royal
Foresters, West Florida Provincials, West Florida Refugees, etc), a number of
those recruited formed “irregular” militia and ranger units that lived and
served alongside the natives. These units were made up of Indian traders and
their employees, as well as a few of the refugees from the Carolina and Georgia
backcountry that had made their livings from the forest before the war. These
“irregular” units, serving under the direct command of the Indian Department
are the Loyalist Rangers and Militia that we recreate. The basic
requirements for an accurate portrayal of a Ranger or Militiaman serving the
Southern Indian Department are listed here. Also included are some basic ideas
and suggestions for some items that are less essential but effective to add to
your "kit" to improve your portrayal. This is not intended to be an
exhaustive list but merely a starting point for you to build your
"kit" from. If you have documentation for other clothing and
accoutrement, please use that as a guideline as well. We also welcome
additions or suggestions to this page, or the sharing of information to add it
to our organizational knowledge-base-in-development. We will strive to be
"common, everyday, and plain" first and foremost, but this does not
mean that unique, documentable items are not acceptable. It simply means
that a convoluted excuse or rationale for possession of an object, including
"spoils of war" should be avoided. Small
Clothes: Linen
Shirt – 18th
century pattern linen shirt in white, natural or any appropriate 18th
century color. (White or natural linen would have been the most common but
indigo blue, madder red, verdigris green as well as browns from Hickory or
Walnut dyeing as well as tea dyeing are all appropriate). Neck and/or wrist
ruffles are a dress-up addition but they do tend to get in the way and tangled
in straps and equipment so consideration should be given to whether they make
sense for the persona. The shirt
should reach to at least mid-thigh with three small horn, bone or wood buttons,
one at collar and one on each sleeve. Cotton was also becoming widely available
towards the end of the Revolutionary War period, but was less common than linen
and was not used for military shirting in the British Army and therefore
unlikely to be available through the military supply system. Many
sutlers and tailors sell these for a reasonable price for the effort involved in
making one, or Beth Gilgun's "Tidings from the 18th Century" has an
excellent pattern for a simple shirt. There are also good patterns for 18th
century shirts available if you need a paper pattern. Hand sewing visible seams
at the neckline and shoulder is recommended. Checked
Shirt – Same as above
except manufactured from checked (blue & white or black & white) linen. Waistcoat
(“weskit”) – A proper 18th Century man was wearing his
underwear if he did not have on a weskit. The
style changes from the F&I period knee-length style to a shorter style by
the Revolution, so you may need more than one.
Various patterns are appropriate for this, and many sutlers sell them. Military colors matched either the coat or breeches – often
the latter. Civilian colors varied.
Materials were wool, silk, and linen, usually with a linen lining.
Wool is very versatile, though can be hot in summer.
If you can have only one weskit per period, wool is a very good choice,
as it will stand up to heavier use and span a wider range of seasons. Neck
Stock – Black horsehair
with clasp (military) or linen (civilian) Breeches
- Everyday wear for most
males of the period. For those not in military service knee breeches with either
button or buckle knee closures are appropriate. These were available in many
colors and fabrics, but the most durable and practical for militia use would be
subdued colors in either linen or canvas for summer wear and wool for cold
weather wear. Many patterns are available for these, and instructions suitable
for the mid-century that would be easy for a reasonably skilled
seamstress/tailor to follow are included in Beth Gilgun’s book. For those who
prefer to wear military issue breeches, they should be white/buff wool or
white/buff linen (depending on the season), with button closures at the knee. Breechcloth
– These, combined with
leggings, were worn by many, particularly Rangers, for woods use in place of
breeches. A breechcloth at its most basic, is a 12-16" wide strip of wool
cloth (flannel or broadcloth in modern fabric terminology), the width of the
bolt -- usually 56-60" long. You may line it with cotton if wool
irritates your skin, but if you full the wool and use a quality material, this
is often unnecessary. The breechclout should reach to about mid-thigh and
be wide enough to cover what's necessary for modern decency (under your shirt).
There's no reason to hem the sides; they'll fray a little and then stop.
Instructions are available here. If
you want a nicer look, saved list Stroud 'clouts are available from Wooded
Hamlet Designs and a few other sutlers. You may also use 3/8 - 1/2"
silk ribbon to decorate or edge a plain wool 'clout, or put silver ring brooches
on it. Leggings
- Often worn
Rangers/Militia in the field, either by themselves with a breechclout or over
their breeches in place of gaiters. We highly recommend navy wool side seam
leggings, with or without some simple silk ribbon decoration. Other colors
of wool were available, most notably red and black, but navy seems to be most
common. Modern native traditions suggest that red leggings are reserved
for leaders. Leather
leggings are also acceptable, but are most appropriate for hunting/battle
scenarios, and are also considerably more expensive and difficult to make. Instructions
for leggings, courtesy of Dave Mott, are available here.
There
is not clear documentation on the use of center seam leggings in the 18th
century. Please use side-seam patterns until further research comes to
light. Gaiters
– Military gaiters are also an option for Rangers/Militia. These are made from
linen, painted black or brown, and rise above the knee with horn buttons down
the side and a strap under the instep. A black leather garter is worn just below
the knee. Belt/Sash
- Military-style
leather belts with period
buckles are the norm. Native
women wove sashes from wool yarn, using an oblique weave and often a single
color of wool, with white beads to create the color pattern. These were
sometimes obtained by whites serving with the Indians and would be worn,
particularly for formal, ceremonial occasions. Rangers/Militia also had access
to white-produced sashes (i.e. inkle-loomed, etc.) and they are another
possibility for wear. Finger-woven
sashes are a very expensive item, so please consult with group members or do a
good bit of research before purchase if you decide you need one. Leg
Garters/ties – Worn
with leggings. Like sashes, these can vary from a simple strip of wool cloth or
leather to expensive finger-woven articles. Start simple, and do your
homework before purchasing the high ticket items. Footwear
Shoes
- Standard black round-toed shoes (18th century
pattern) with a brass buckle are most appropriate for daily wear. These are
available from a number of sutlers such as Fugawee, J. Townsend, G. Gedney
Godwin, Smoke & Fire, etc. You
should purchase a mid-late 18th c. shoe and either use buckles or lace them up. Fugawee
make a very affordable (though not cheap) shoe that will last you for years.
They run a little large and wide in our experience, so talk to the company
before purchasing. Stockings
– White cotton or gray
wool over the knee with leather garters. Moccasins
– For those who
regularly operated with the Indians, moccasins would be the primary choice.
Center seam pucker-toe deerskin or elk skin moccasins are the appropriate for
use. A
good moccasin pattern created by Dave Mott is available here
on our site, or you can see the well-known "Darry Wood" moccasin
instructions on Native
Tech's site. Dave's instructions are easier to follow though. Brain-tanned
deer hide is a first choice, but commercially tanned elk hide can make excellent
moccasins, especially if you rough the smooth side with sandpaper or a pumice
stone. Other moccasin styles are not clearly documented, so if you choose
to use them, please be prepared to document their use in the time period and
region. Outerwear:
Coat:
There are a couple of options here
for cool/cold weather wear. Several vendors sell good quality Civilian
Coats in a number of fabrics and colors. Other options include the sleeved
waistcoat, the short, wool “workman’s” jacket and the hunting frock. One
other option for cold weather wear is the Blanket Coat or Capote. Be careful in
purchasing one of these as many of the styles sold by vendors are either for
periods later than ours or else were used in northern areas (Canada, New York,
Great Lakes) Matchcoat:
The simplest outerwear
used by almost all native people, and many frontiersmen as well, was a blanket
or matchcoat. A full-width piece of Stroud, duffel, or their modern
equivalents that is as long as the person is tall (about two yards) makes an
excellent matchcoat. You may hem the edges, let them fray, or bind them
with silk ribbon. Decoration with silk ribbon near the ends is one way to
dress up as well. Wool colors most common were dark blue, red, and black,
in that order. Ribbon appeared in many different colors, but yellow, gold,
red, and blue seem to be most common. Metallic gold lace was also used to
create a matchcoat for formal occasions. You can see instructions for
matchcoat designs here on our
site Hint:
When you buy cloth for leggings and/or breechcloth, buy 3-1/3 or 3-1/2 yards and
you'll have a matchcoat, 'clout, and leggings. Wash your wool in warm water and
tumble it very briefly in a dryer after it has dripped dry to "full"
it before you cut it or add ribbon decoration.
Headwear Cocked
Hat – “Tricorne”.
Black felt edged with white worsted wool tape, Black cockade with silver button.
The
ranger or “jockey cap” was worn by some ID Officers in the Northern
Department as well as Rangers in some of the units under military command but,
to date, we have not seen any documentation for those on Southern Department
personnel. If you wish to wear one please be prepared to document their use in
the Southern Department. Fatigue
Cap, Bonnet or Toque – Either
a red wool, military type forage cap / night cap (for wear in camp), a
highland-type Scott’s bonnet or a knit wool toque or “voyager’s” cap
(depending on the ethnic extraction of the particular individual). Head
Rag - One other
possibility for wear is a head rag. A head rag is nothing more than a square of
silk or linen cloth tied around the head somewhat in the manner seen in the
pirate movies. Hair: The
hair of civilians in the period was worn in a number of styles. Many wore their
hair long and either pulled back into a ponytail, tied off with a ribbon, or
else pulled back and “clubbed” (a la military wear) with a black ribbon.
Others wore their hair cut short much as many people do today. Wigs,
as used by military officers and enlisted, would not be a common item in an
“irregular” force such as ours. For those who want long hair but don’t
want to grow their hair long, G. Gedney Godwin sells properly styled quality
colonial wigs (http://gggodwin.com/wigs.htm
). Another source is Madam Joan’s Wee Wiggies (http://www.madamejoan.homestead.com/
) which, in addition to colonial men’s wigs also sells a “tie-in” hair
queue that looks pretty good as well. While
these wigs are not inexpensive, they are high quality and with proper care they
should last you for many years. Weapons: Firelock
- ID Rangers and Militia
would be armed with a combination of Trade Guns, Civilian Fowlers and Rifles, as
well as a limited number of the “Kings Arms” (Brown Bess). In all
likelihood, these “Kings Arms” would be older, surplus, First Model Brown
Besses rather than the newer, 2nd model. Your firelock is a high cost
item so be sure to do your research carefully before investing in one. Remember,
an earlier gun can almost always be used in a later scenario but a late-period
gun cannot fit into an early-period scenario. Cartridge
Box - Once again, ID
personnel, being somewhat a part of the Military establishment, would have
access to military cartridge boxes. When purchasing, choose carefully as some
patterns did not appear until later in the war (see above for comments in regard
to early vs. late period patterns). Powder
Horn and Shooting Bag – If
you choose not to use a cartridge box, then the powder horn and shooting bag are
for you. These should be worn in the “hollow if the ribs”, under the arm,
where they are out of the way and can be “clamped” in place with the elbow
when running. Once again, there are issues with both of these as to the
appropriate time-period for various features on these. Either research things
very carefully or else talk with an experienced member of the unit for advice. Besides
“standard” cow leather shooting bags, other options are the brain-tanned
leather “Indian style” bag and the finger-woven or twined bag. The
brain-tanned bags are relatively easily made and won’t cost you a fortune. The
twined and finger-woven bags, on the other hand can be expensive and if you
decide to purchase one you should look to someone with experience in these
things to guide you. Tomahawk,
Pipe Hawk or Light Infantry Ax -
These are available from a number of sources. If you choose to purchase a
tomahawk or pipe hawk, please be sure to purchase an “eastern style” as
opposed to the later, western style, ones sold by some vendors. For those
carrying a “Kings Arm” a bayonet is also appropriate for use. Knife
- This is an area where you have some leeway for personal
interpretation. As long as the knife is of an 18th-Century pattern it
should fit in. Options include: native-style neck knives, belt knives, Scottish
dirks, and folding pocket knives. If you are not sure if a particular style is
appropriate, contact an experienced unit member for guidance. Personal
items: Tin
or Copper Canteen – These
were often covered with wool fabric both as insulation and to help keep them
from making noise when moving through the forest. Fire
starting kit - Flint,
steel, tinder, char, and something to transport it in such as a leather bag. Kettle - Military issue tin kettle of one of the various sizes of
tin, copper or brass trade kettles that appear on trade lists. Rangers, on
patrol might also be carrying the small corn boilers" or "muckets". Personal
eating utensils - Bowls,
plates or trenchers made of wood, tin, or pottery Spoon
- Made of wood, pewter, or silver. Drinking
vessel – Brass, copper,
or tin period drinking cup or mug. Also appropriate would be leather drinking
“jacks” and wooden noggins. Pack and
Bedding The
most basic pack method is a bed/blanket roll using a tumpline. Tumpline (Burden Strap) - Twined tumplines, burden straps or
hoppus were commonly used. Leather straps with either cordage or leather ties
appear in collections and accounts from the period. Woolen
Blanket(s) - British
military issue white wool blankets or other woolen trade blankets. Small
twined or leather bags - for
storage of your stuff when not rolled up in your bedroll. Military
Pack – A
good, period
appropriate, military pack is also a good choice for ID personnel. Haversack
– Rations, eating
utensils (fork, spoon, bowl, cup), and small personal items were normally
carried in a linen haversack. These can be purchased inexpensively from a number
of vendors. Tent/shelter
- Military wedge tent or, for use in “ranging situations situations, a treated
sail, tarp, or oilskin to make a lean-to with or nothing at all. Other personal
items such as pipes and tobacco, combs, small trade items, etc. appear regularly
in inventories from the period. These small, usually low cost items can be
the added "bang" for little buck. Do research before you buy,
even if inexpensive.
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