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Guidelines for Indian Department Officer’s Clothing and Accoutrement:The basic requirements for an accurate portrayal of an Officer in the Crown’s Southern Indian Department are listed here. Also included are some basic ideas and suggestions for some items that are less essential but effective to add to your "kit" to improve your portrayal. This is not intended to be an exhaustive list but merely a starting point for you to build your "kit" from. If you have documentation for other clothing and accoutrement, please use that as a guideline as well. We also welcome additions or suggestions to this page, or the sharing of information to add it to our organizational knowledge-base-in-development. We will strive to be "common, everyday, and plain" first and foremost, but this does not mean that unique, documented items are not acceptable. It simply means that a convoluted excuse or rationale for possession of an object, including "spoils of war" should be avoided. NOTE: Our research has, to date not been able to unearth any indication that officers in the Southern Indian Department wore military uniforms - with the possible exception of the Superintendent himself. Our current thinking is that officers should be dressed in civilian clothing suitable to their station. ID Officers were paid at a rate similar to that of a Captain in one of his Majesty's Regiments of Foot while the interpreters were somewhere between a Serjeant and an Ensign while packhorsemen were paid at a rate similar to a corporal. Our best recommendation for ID Officer clothing at this point would be a nice suit of civilian clothes - shirt, breeches, waistcoat, hat, and a civilian coat. add to this leggings and moccasins and a coat of arms gorget and officer's sash to show their authority. Small
Clothes: Officer’s
Shirt – Fine white linen
“gentleman’s” shirt. Neck and/or wrist ruffles are a dress-up addition but
consideration should be given to whether they make sense for the persona. It should reach to approximately mid-thigh with three small
horn buttons, one at collar and one on each sleeve. Cotton was also available
towards the end of the Revolutionary War period, but was less common than linen
and was not used for military shirting in the British Army Many
sutlers and tailors sell these for a reasonable price for the effort involved in
making one, or Beth Gilgun's "Tidings from the 18th Century" has an
excellent pattern for a simple shirt. There are also good patterns for 18th
century shirts available if you need a paper pattern. Hand sewing visible seams
at the neckline and shoulder is recommended. Work
(or Fatigue) Shirt –
Same as above except manufactured from checked (blue & white or black &
white) linen. Waistcoat
(“weskit”) – A proper 18th. Century man was wearing his
underwear if he did not have on a weskit. The
style changes from the F&I period knee-length style to a shorter style by
the Revolution, so you may need more than one.
Various patterns are appropriate for this, and many sutlers sell them. Civilian colors varied.
Materials were wool, silk, and linen, usually with a linen lining.
Wool is very versatile, though can be hot in summer.
If you can have only one weskit per period, wool is a very good choice,
as it will stand up to heavier use and span a wider range of seasons. Neck
Stock – Black linen
Breeches
- Everyday wear for most
ID Officers. These should be either wool, canvas or linen (depending on the
season).
Many patterns are
available for these, and instructions suitable for the mid-century that would be
easy for a reasonably skilled seamstress/tailor to follow are included in Beth
Gilgun’s book. Leggings - Often worn by ID officers in the field, either by themselves or over their breeches in place of gaiters. We highly recommend either brain-tanned deerskin or navy colored wool side seam leggings, with or without some simple silk ribbon decoration. Other colors of wool were available, most notably red and black, but navy seems to be most common. Modern native traditions suggest that red leggings are reserved for leaders. Based on this, a nicely decorated pair of red leggings would be a good choice for “formal” (treaty negotiations, Indian Congress, etc) settings. Instructions
for wool leggings, courtesy of Dave Mott, are available here.
There
is not clear documentation on the use of center seam leggings in the 18th
century. Please use side-seam patterns until further research comes to
light. Gaiters
– Military gaiters are also an option for ID Officers. These are made from
linen, painted black or brown, and rise above the knee with horn buttons down
the side and a strap under the instep. A black leather garter is worn just below
the knee. Breechcloth
- These were worn by some,
mostly mixed race, ID Officers in the field in place of breeches. A breechcloth
at its most basic, is a 12-16" wide strip of wool cloth (flannel or
broadcloth in modern fabric terminology), the width of the bolt -- usually
56-60" long. You may line it with cotton if wool irritates your skin,
but if you full the wool and use a quality material, this is often unnecessary.
The breechclout should reach to about mid-thigh and be wide enough to cover
what's necessary for modern decency (under your shirt). There's no reason
to hem the sides; they'll fray a little and then stop. Instructions are
available here.
If
you want a nicer look, saved list Stroud breechclouts can be made from wool
available from Crazy Crow Trading Post and a few other sutlers. You may also use 3/8 - 1/2"
silk ribbon to decorate or edge a plain wool 'clout, or put silver ring brooches
on it. Belt/Sash - Military-style leather belts with period buckles are the norm as are officer's sashes. Native
women wove sashes from wool yarn, using an oblique weave and often a single
color of wool, with white beads to create the color pattern. These were
often gifted to ID Officers and would be worn, particularly for formal,
ceremonial occasions. ID Officers also had access to white-produced sashes (i.e.
loomed) and they are another possibility for certain occasions. Finger-woven
sashes are a very expensive item, so please consult with group members or do a
good bit of research before purchase if you decide you need one. Leg
Garters/ties - Like
sashes, these can vary from a simple strip of wool cloth or leather to expensive
finger-woven articles. Start simple, and do your homework before
purchasing the high ticket items. Footwear
Shoes
- Standard black round-toed shoes (18th century
pattern) with a brass buckle are most appropriate for daily wear. These are
available from a number of sutlers such as Fugawee, J. Townsend, G. Gedney
Godwin, Smoke & Fire, etc. You
should purchase a mid-late 18th c. shoe and either use buckles or lace them up. Fugawee
make a very affordable (though not cheap) shoe that will last you for years.
They run a little large and wide in our experience, so talk to the company
before purchasing. Stockings
– White cotton or gray
wool over the knee with leather garters. Moccasins
- Center seam pucker-toe
deerskin or elk skin moccasins are also appropriate for ID Officers, especially
in the field when operating with Indian war parties. A
good moccasin pattern created by Dave Mott is available here
on our site, or you can see the well-known "Darry Wood" moccasin
instructions on Native
Tech's site. Dave's instructions are easier to follow though. Brain-tanned
deer hide is a first choice, but commercially tanned elk hide can make excellent
moccasins, especially if you rough the smooth side with sandpaper or a pumice
stone. Other moccasin styles are not clearly documented, so if you choose
to use them, please be prepared to document their use in the time period and
region. Outerwear:
Civilian Coat: As with the waistcoat,
the
style changes from the F&I period to
the Revolution, so you may need more than one.
Various patterns are appropriate for this, and many sutlers sell them. Civilian colors varied.
Materials were wool, silk, and linen, usually with a linen lining however
silk would only be appropriate for formal occasions in major towns or cities.
Wool is very versatile, though can be hot in summer.
If you can have only one weskit per period, wool is a very good choice,
as it will stand up to heavier use and span a wider range of seasons.
Regimental
Coat: There
are a couple of options here. If you can document the particular ID Officer that
you portray as having served in the British military (either Regular or
Provincial) then you could certainly wear the regimental from that unit as that
could well be something that he may have had. Otherwise,
the “civilian” Regimental that is seen in the period painting of Col Guy
Johnson which is essentially a red
wool regimental, round collar, red wool facings, plain silver buttons, no lace.
This painting can be found at the United
Empire Loyalists website: (Keep in
mind that the picture is a “formal” portrait and not necessarily how an ID
Officer would be dressed in the field) Matchcoat:
The simplest outerwear
used by almost all native people, and many ID officers, was a blanket or
matchcoat. A full-width piece of Stroud, duffel, or their modern
equivalents that is as long as the person is tall (about two yards) makes an
excellent matchcoat. You may hem the edges, let them fray, or bind them
with silk ribbon. Decoration with silk ribbon near the ends is one way to
dress up as well. Wool colors most common were dark blue, red, and black,
in that order. Ribbon appeared in many different colors, but yellow, gold,
red, and blue seem to be most common. Metallic gold lace was also used to
create a matchcoat for formal occasions. You can see instructions for
matchcoat designs here on our
site Hint:
When you buy cloth for leggings and/or breechcloth, buy 3-1/3 or 3-1/2 yards and
you'll have a matchcoat, 'clout, and leggings. Wash your wool in warm water and
tumble it very briefly in a dryer after it has dripped dry to "full"
it before you cut it or add ribbon decoration.
Headwear Cocked
Hat – “Tricorne”.
Black felt edged with white or silver worsted wool tape, Black cockade with
silver button. The
ranger or “jockey cap” was worn by some ID Officers in the Northern
Department but, to date, we have not seen any documentation for those on
Southern Department Officers. If you wish to wear one please be prepared to
document their use in the Southern Department. Fatigue
Cap or Bonnet – Either a
red wool forage cap / night cap (for wear in camp) or else a lowland-type
Scott’s bonnet (depending on the ethnic extraction of the particular ID
Officer). One other possibility for wear is a head rag. (Please no head rags and
tricorne together ala “pirate” movies). Hair: The
hair of most ID officers in the period was worn long and either pulled back into
a ponytail tied off with a ribbon or else pulled back and “clubbed” (a la
military wear) with a black ribbon. ID officers in the Southern Department,
unless they were of mixed-race (native/white and raised among the tribe), did
not usually adopt native hairstyles. For
those who don’t want to grow their hair long, G. Gedney Godwin sells properly
styled quality colonial wigs (http://gggodwin.com/wigs.htm
). Another source is Madam Joan’s Wee Wiggies (http://www.madamejoan.homestead.com/
) which, in addition to colonial men’s wigs also sells a “tie-in” hair
queue that looks pretty good also. While
these wigs are not inexpensive, they are high quality and with proper care they
should last you for many years. Physical
adornment: Physical
Adornment consists of jewelry and tattoos. Period accounts list ear
splitting and piercing, nose rings, and tattoos as common among southeastern
native men. ID Officers, particularly mixed race ones, often adopted some
of these items in order to “fit in” with the people they were working with.
In village council or treaty event scenarios, jewelry would have been common and
worn in large quantities. In a battle or hunting situation, it would have been
simple and plain. Gorget - Almost all ID Officers would have worn a brass gorget with the King’s cipher on it as a badge of rank. This would have been worn not only so that British, Provincial, and Militia troops would recognize them as an Officer but also to show their authority from King George to the natives they met.
Officer's Sash: Silk Officer's sash like th Other
Items - Other items
sometimes worn by ID Officers include C-bracelets, Silver and Brass Armbands and
Wristbands, and Trade Silver. Brass welding rod bent into wrist C-bracelets are
a very cheap method of dressing up. Round silver ring brooches are
inexpensive, and were often used as "change" in trades. Other
silver or brass items such as pins, arm and wrist bands, etc. occasionally worn
by ID Officers but are high cost items that should be carefully researched. Weapons: Firelock
- ID Officers, being
somewhat a part of the Military establishment, would have access to “King’s
Arms” (Brown Bess) so these are certainly appropriate for use with your
persona. It is quite likely, also, that an ID Officer might well have opted for
the lighter weight of a Trade gun or a fowler. Your firelock is a high cost item
so be sure to do your research carefully before investing in one. Remember, an
earlier gun can almost always be used in a later scenario but a late-period gun
cannot fit into an early-period scenario. Sidearms
(pistols) - These, as long as correct for the period/impression, are
acceptable for ID Officer use however, please keep in mind that most events do
not allow them to be loaded/fired and
some do not even allow them to be carried on the battlefield. Cartridge
Box - Once again, ID
Officers, being somewhat a part of the Military establishment, could have access
to military cartridge boxes. When purchasing, choose carefully as some patterns
did not appear until later in the war (see above for comments in regard to early
vs. late period patterns). Powder
Horn and Shooting Bag – If
you choose not to use a cartridge box, then the powder horn and shooting bag are
for you. These should be worn in the “hollow of the ribs”, under the arm,
where they are out of the way and can be “clamped” in place with the elbow
when running. Once again, there are issues with both of these as to the
appropriate time-period for various features on these. Either research things
very carefully or else talk with an experienced member of the unit for advice. Besides
“standard” cow leather shooting bags, other options are the brain-tanned
leather “Indian style” bag and the finger-woven or twined bag. The
brain-tanned bags are relatively easily made and won’t cost you a fortune. The
twined and finger-woven bags, on the other hand can be expensive and if you
decide to purchase one you should look to someone with experience in these
things to guide you. Tomahawk,
Pipe Hawk or Light Infantry Ax -
These are available from a number of sources. If you choose to purchase a
tomahawk or pipe hawk, please be sure to purchase an “eastern style” as
opposed to the later, western style, ones sold by some vendors. Hanger
or Hunting Sword - These
are acceptable for ID Officer use as long as the pattern is correct for the
period and makes sense for the impression. These are really for show only as
most events do not allow edged weapons to be drawn on the battlefield. Knife
- This is an area where you have some leeway for personal
interpretation. As long as the knife is of an 18th-Century pattern it
should fit in. Options include: native-style neck knives, belt knives, Scottish
dirks, and folding pocket knives. If you are not sure if a particular style is
appropriate, contact an experienced unit member for guidance. Personal
items: Tin
or Copper Canteen – These
were often covered with wool fabric both as insulation and to help keep them
from making noise when moving through the forest. Fire
starting kit - flint,
steel, tinder, and something to transport it in such as a leather bag. Kettle - Military issue tin kettle of one of the various sizes of
tin, copper or brass trade kettles that appear on trade lists, but not small
"corn boilers" or "muckets". Personal
eating utensils - Bowls,
plates or trenchers made of wood, tin, or pottery Spoon
- made of wood, pewter, or silver. Drinking
vessel – Brass, copper,
or tin period drinking cup or mug. Also appropriate would be leather drinking
“jacks” and wooden noggins. Pack and
Bedding The
most basic pack method is a bed/blanket roll using a tumpline. Tumpline (Burden Strap) - Twined tumplines, burden straps or
hoppus were commonly used. Leather straps with either cordage or leather ties
appear in collections and accounts from the period. Woolen
Blanket(s) - White wool
British military issue blankets or other woolen trade blankets. Small
twined or leather bags - for
storage of your stuff when not rolled up in your bedroll. Military
Pack – A
good, period
appropriate, military pack is also a good choice for ID Officers. Haversack
– Rations, eating
utensils (fork, spoon, bowl, cup), and small personal items were normally
carried in a linen haversack. These can be purchased inexpensively from a number
of vendors. Tent/shelter
- Military wedge tent or, for use in war party situations, a treated sail, tarp,
or oilskin to make a lean-to with. Other personal
items such as pipes and tobacco, combs, small trade items, etc. appear regularly
in inventories from the period. These small, usually low cost items can be
the added "bang" for little buck. Do research before you buy,
even if inexpensive. |
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Copyright 2004-2007-Southern Indian Department |
